Gear Review || Blue Ice Addax Harness
Posted In "Gear Review" on "March 07th, 2024"Who are Blue Ice?
Blue Ice, based at the foot of Mont-Blanc in Chamonix, France, are a small team of skiers, climbers, and mountaineers with a traditionalist philosophy of returning to the basics: produce simple, strong, and effective products that can stand the test of time. Still in their infancy, Blue Ice started in 2008, and their backpacks, harnesses, and ice axes have been developing a reputation in the outdoor community for being durable and trustworthy on rock, ice, and snow.
What Blue Ice Say About The Harness-
This ultralight harness (139 grams in size S) is ideal for rock or indoor climbing. Extremely versatile and efficient, it is also ideal for mountaineering and ice climbing. The Addax makes no compromise on the quality of its functional elements: four large gear loops, two waist belt ice screw slots, comfortable padded leg loops and a waist speed buckle. The seamless "Magic Ring" belay loop also offers more lightness and friction resistance. It is a harness for experienced climbers looking for minimum weight without giving up comfort and sturdiness.
First Impressions-
I received the Blue Ice Addax back in May from the lovely folk at Beyond Hope UK. I ordered this harness purely for mountaineering due to its light weight, wanting something I won’t notice in my bag. As soon as I unpacked the Addax I knew it was fit for the job, coming in a storage bag not much bigger than a can of coke and weighing roughly the same weight as two and a half mars bars! As soon as I tried it on I was hugely surprised by the comfort, maybe this is going to be more than a mountaineering harness?!
Out in the field-
Fit-
I’m a 30 inch waist, so ordered a size small in the Addax. The harness fits me comfortably while wearing a t-shirt and also multiple layers alike. The gear loops sit in an easy to reach position, meaning gear is easy to access in all situations. I was a little worried about the fixed leg loops being too tight with salopettes on but this is not a problem. They fit tightly over the waterproof trousers but do not limit movement in the slightest.
Comfort-
Weighing only a 139 grams, comfort is not something you would expect. This is definitely not the case though. I’ve spent many hours fully weighting the harness on hanging belays, self lining next to clients on learn to lead courses and dogging up sport routes. The Addax is more comfy than other harnesses I’ve used, which are more than twice the weight. There are comfier harnesses out there but is it really worth carrying the extra weight?! If you spend all your time sport climbing maybe so, but anyone who will be in the mountains trad/winter/alpine climbing this is the harness for you!
Features-
-
Four generously sized gear loops - I’ve fitted a rack of 17 cams (Yosemite racked), three snap-gates with a big selection of nuts on each, 12 quick-draws, approach shoes and other essentials for big trad routes. There are not many days were I would carry more than this. Gear was easy to access and the harness didn’t feel overloaded.
-
Four ice screw slots- I haven’t had a chance to use these yet. I’ve used others on big brand harnesses which have broken within a season. Blue Ice have obviously thought about this, the material and thread appears strong and durable.
-
Waist speed buckle- easy to adjust and I haven’t had any problems with the buckle creeping open even when the harness is fully loaded.
Durability-
After 6 months of use, the addax is coping very well! It’s showing very little signs of wear and has definitely not had an easy ride. Over the 6 months I would say it’s been used on average 5 days a week, whether that is guiding or for personal use. A big chunk of that has been guiding on the Cuillin Ridge, Skye. The rock is notoriously famous for destroying kit but the Addax has overcome this reputation!
Verdict-
The Blue Ice Addax is a new standard! Extremely light without compromising comfort and durability. This harness was originally purchased for mountaineering but is now my go to for trad & winter climbing also. My knees are definitely thankful!