Trad climbing offers unparalleled freedom and adventure. With the right skills, training, and equipment, you can explore a wide range of climbing routes.

What is Trad Climbing?

Trad (traditional) climbing involves placing your own protection as you climb, unlike sport and indoor climbing, which have pre-placed bolts. This requires you to carry a variety of gear and have the skills to place it securely in the rock.

Roles in Trad Climbing

• Lead Climber: The lead climber ascends the route first, placing protection (such as cams, hexes, and nuts) into cracks and weaknesses in the rock. They clip the rope into these pieces of protection using quickdraws, which helps prevent a long fall if they slip.
• Second Climber: The second climber belays the lead climber, providing a safe catch if they fall. Once the lead climber reaches the top of the pitch and sets up a belay, the second climber follows the route on a top-rope, removing the protection placed by the leader and leaving the rock as it was before. Clear communication between the leader and second is crucial for safety and efficiency. 

Learning the Basics

Starting as a Second Climber

To safely learn trad climbing, start by climbing as a second with an experienced climber or instructor. As you follow the route, pay close attention to how the leader places protection and sets up belays. At the top, take time to study the belay setup and ask questions about the decisions made.

Practicing Protection Placement

Before leading your own routes, practice placing protection at ground level. This helps you understand which pieces of gear fit different types of cracks and rock features. Practice with cams, nuts, and hexes to become proficient in placing each type securely. Additionally, practice setting up belays to ensure you can do this efficiently and safely when leading a climb.